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RFID Wireless Ignition How-To 05 Suzuki B12

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lj516 View Drop Down

Joined: 12 June 2012
Location: United States
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lj516 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: RFID Wireless Ignition How-To 05 Suzuki B12
    Posted: 12 June 2012 at 8:10am
Hi All! I was recommended to stop over and share my RFID motorcycle Ignition write up. I have used this method on both my Suzuki bandit and my Yamaha R6. The R6 did not have a security wire and I know that the size of the resistor on the security wire varies for companies between most manufacturers. This is the only deviation anyone should have to take with applying this write-up to other bikes.  I also have a few videos on my YouTube page  http://www.youtube.com/lj516 of the bikes and of my implant in my wrist. 
The implant I have is from sparkfun and it was autoclaved (sterilized) and surgically implanted in my left wrist. 
What it looks like now 1.5 years later


Well here it goes this is a write up for the RFID wireless Ignition that I have in both my R6 and Bandit 1200. (A general understanding of electronics is needed) This write up is specifically for an 05 B12 but the general format is applicable to just about any bike(not sure about EFI bikes, should still work in the same manner)This bike has a security wire so it is applicable with many of the newer bikes. Older bikes can omit the security wire section. 

2-Automotive Relay switches 
11-10kohm resistors
1-on/off switch(I got fancy with one that lit up)
Wire and connectors
A DMM(Digital Multi Meter) is never a bad thing to have in this situation 

Stock ignition wire harness:
 Locate the loom of wire coming out of the stock ignition. The stock ignition can either be left in and used in parallel with the RFID ignition or completely removed. 
This loom will include 6 wires and will look something like below. Ignore the random chunks of patching wire. 

Just like in the picture:
RED-Constant 12+ source
Black/White-constant ground
Wires(Orange, Grey, Brown) need a 12V switched source. These turn on gauges initialize system. Bike will turn over with these but will NOT start due to the "security" wire being non asserted.
Orange/Yellow-"Security" wire. This wire needs to be grounded with a ~1K resistor in line. It is important to note that the amount of current will in excess of what normal ¼- 1/6 watt resistors are able to handle. Therefore, the use of multiple resistors in parallel is the best solution for handling the current load. Using 10-11 10k resistors in parallel(twisted together end to end) will give you a ~1k resistance. Also this wire should have at least a switch or relay inline because it will drain your battery constantly if you don’t. Not very fast but it will.  

The RIFD “Brain” has three wires that need to be addressed:
Red-12V switch/fuse
White(yellow in Picture)-12V Pulse when RFID tag read and identified
This white wire will run to the green “Activation Input” wire on 611T latching relay
The Coil pick up can be placed behind plastic(mine is in the tail) just be aware of the range of your RFID device the smaller the chip the smaller the range. For example my implanted RFID chip (1.5x size of a grain of rice) has a range of about .5in. Whereas the included keyfobs have a range of about 1in. Other chips can be used as well including the Credit Card style just make sure they are 125KHz. 

The 611T latching relay has 5 wires:
Green-(see white wire RFID brain)
Red-12V switch/fuse
Yellow-12V output going to the 86 post on the auto relays
Brown-12V switch/fuse

The automotive relays:
1st relay (Left in Picture)
Posts 30 and 85-ground
Post 86-connected to yellow output of 611t
Post 87-connect 10 10k ohm resistors in parallel, place this 1k ohm resistor inline and connect it to the orange/yellow security wire. 
2nd relay(Right in Picture)
Post 85-ground
Post 86-connected to yellow output of 611t
Post 30-using 14-16Ga wire and a 30A fuse go to 12V
Post 87-using 14-16Ga wire connect to Orange, Grey, and Brown. 
(Note: I linked orange, grey, and brown together then the one wire to the combination of all three)

Placement of the equipment:
I have all of my modules located under the seat. In hindsight I would have rather placed them under the front fairing. Reason being you have to run less wire and you can place the scanner in a more convenient location. 

I can’t stress this enough. Both the RFID Brain and 611T need to be taken apart and sealed and double sealed with silicone. I have fried a couple of units not sealing them up and it renders the “system” useless. 
Note: The system can be hotwired by opening the relays and taping the little arm down. If you don’t know what I mean open one up and take a look. It will save you if the situation ever arises.
How it all works:
To arm the system switch on the 12V supply switch. This provides power to the Brain and 611t. 
Swipe your RFID device past the scanner
Bike will initiate the same as if the key was turned
Start bike
You can kill the bike by first using the kill switch or 
By swiping the RFID device past the scanner again or
Flipping the 12V supply switch
-Killing the bike in this manner leaves a “memory” in the 611t for about 10 sec. Meaning if the switch were re-armed within that time frame the bike will turn on without needing to be swiped.

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amal View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 November 2005
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 June 2012 at 9:21am
Thanks a ton for sharing this write-up! I make only one request; upload the photos to this forum rather than host them on photobucket. Pictures hosted off-site tend to disappear after a while, and that tends to ruin the entire post.

On my 'busa I used the engine run switch to power up the reader (and relays). I did this by moving the two wires connected by the engine run switch to a relay, then running +12v to the engine run switch. When the switch was on, the relay closed and the "normal" operation of the run switch was preserved. The engine run switch also provided power to my RFID gear. 

One can also use a regular relay as a latching relay if you just make it feed itself. To de-latch it though you must cut power to the entire setup.
Amal ;)

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MrThumper View Drop Down

Joined: 08 August 2012
Location: Australia
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Points: 4
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrThumper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 August 2012 at 3:25am
Ive got a 2010 Suzuki Boulevard and am going to give this a go. Ive ordered the parts and am just waiting for them to arrive.
I have 2 questions if you can help.....
My ignition wires are the same as the above photos..
Amal, I love your idea of utilising the run/stop switch. Do you have a wiring diagram?
And I want to get an implant...can you recommend one for the above reader and where to get it?
Thanks to you both Smile
My email is:  oothumpa@tpg.com.au if you can help
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UnMonk View Drop Down

Joined: 30 July 2012
Location: United States
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote UnMonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 September 2012 at 3:21pm
I will also be attempting this on my 2012 Honda CBR250R

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