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Motorcycle keyless ignition

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gixxercan View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 February 2010 at 12:37pm
New here.. and I thought I'd come to the best to get my project to work proper.

I'm looking to make a keyless ignition on my bike.. using a RFID .

Here is the RFID I ordered.. Hope it works.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/RFID-Reader-transponder-key-fob-security_W0QQitemZ370330338754QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item56396885c2


Here is is a wiring diagram for the bike.. I'm not the best with this kind of stuff.. SO i'd like as much help as i can get..





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amal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2010 at 3:43pm
I take it by the handle you've got a 'busa? That diagram looks very similar to mine, and the reader is the exact one I used on my 2005 1300R. The only hang-up is that one of the pairs in the ignition key switch has a 100 ohm resister in there, so you'll have to mimic that or the bike won't start. I forget which pair it is, but test the switched pairs with an ohm meter and you'll find it.

Aside from that I also modded my engine run switch to remain a functioning engine kill switch but also as a power source for the RFID reader. I did this with an additional set of relays and a diode. I never drew up a wiring diagram for that part of the project, but one could be drawn up I suppose if you'd like to see one.
Amal ;)

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amal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2010 at 3:49pm
Oh, PS, there are some other posts on here that deal with ignition projects... you'll probably wanna check those out too.
Amal ;)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gixxercan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2010 at 7:26pm
Yes I've been looking at that.. New this is for a GSXR 600 2003.. If you need better pictures of the wiring diagram that would do able to do that.. the solid red is the power provider from the battery. My thinking is hot wire into that red wire.. i'll get power to all? But i'm wondering if that RFID will work with what I'm wanting to do?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gixxercan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2010 at 7:32pm
I've never Wired up relays or anything like that.. So You'll have to help me out.. consider me a EXTRA NEWB!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gixxercan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2010 at 7:59am
After doing some research and reading I"m wondering is it possible to do this by putting a relay in infront of my starter relay/main fuse?



The main relay and fuse is at the bottum VERY RIGHT. That solid red wire connects straight to the ignition, Not i'm wondering if i put a relay in there will it power up that relay to make the outher wires that come out of it live yellow/Green go to starter switch, red and white go to fuel pump and then gauge cluster and the brown and black go to all saftie whichs and the ECM??

Will this work.. I'm looking to be able to use both my key if i want or my RFID unit if i want.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2010 at 10:15am
The best thing to do is to focus on duplicating key function. Because GSXRs don't have an RFID based immobilizer in them, doing this is far easier than some other bike models. Doing it that way will also still let you use the key if you want to. My first ride after getting the RFID authentication working, I was so stoked to take off without my key I purposely left it on the kitchen counter and rode off... forgetting the gas cap requires the key to unlock. I'm about 20 miles away from my house and pull into the gas station, look down, and realize I'm an idiot. I rode home going 45 miles an hour on the freeway and letting it coast down hills and did all those little tricks to try to stretch my mileage, but I still ended up pushing the bike the last couple miles.

Ok, so anyway, looking at the first wiring diagram image you posted (the one of the keyswitch wiring), you will need four automotive relays (you'll see why you need 4 of these later). They can be found at Radio Shack or an auto parts store. They have standard blade connectors on them and can handle up to 30A of current. You won't be passing that much power through the relays, but it's good to use an automotive component as they are typically more durable in that kind of environment than electronics relays.

You will also need some butt connectors, a regular automotive toggle switch (preferably one sold with a mount plate), some 12 gauge red and black power wire (you'll need a lot more red wire), some female blade connectors that fit the male blades on the relays (and will work properly with 12 gauge wire), and a fusible link to connect the red power wire to the + terminal on the battery.



The idea here is that you will connect the 5A or 10A fuse link to the positive (+) terminal of the battery. This will cut power to the RFID reader in case the thing goes haywire and fries. The manufacturing quality of these eBay readers is for sh*t... and you wouldn't want to burn up your bike just because you didn't include a fuse.

Once that is connected up, connect the black wire to the negative (-) terminal (or the chassy) and the red power wire to the other end of the fused link. Find a good place to mount the toggle switch. This will be the secret switch you have to throw in order to power up the RFID reader, and turn off in order to power the bike down after your ride. Once installed, connect the red power wire coming from the fused link to one side of the switch.

Now find a good place to hide the automotive relays and RFID module box so it will all fit nicely, but be close enough to where you want to mount the cylindrical antenna. I found hiding everything in the front fairing, just to the left of the gas tank worked for me. Once you have your spot picked out, run some red power wire from the open terminal on the switch up to your chosen mounting place. Leave some extra slack (make a small loop or two, just in case), then run the black power wire from the battery/chassy connection up to your chosen RFID box/relay mounting place.

Now you'll want to locate the 3 pairs of switch wires coming from the key switch. You'll want to test all three pairs to see which one (if any) has that pesky 100 ohm resistance in the line. The ECU uses this specific resistance value from the key switch to determine if someone has "hotwired" the bike. If there is no resistance on the line, the bike will power up and look like it's ready to go, and the starter will crank the engine, but it won't start. To find this special pair, get out your ohm meter and test each pair with the key in the ON position. You should get a reading close to 0 ohms (up to 5 or 10 ohms in normal in switched links), but if you get a reading of 100 ohms or something similar, write that value down and tape that pair of wires together with something you can write on, or use some kind of marker to indicate those wires are "special". Now tape together the other two pairs of wires so you can easily tell which wires should be bridged using the relays.

With your switch wires paired up, you're going to tap them all using some wire taps. By tapping these wires and not cutting them, you're going to be able to use the key OR an RFID tag to power up and start your bike. Use these squeeze taps with your red 12 gauge power wire to tap and extend each of the 6 wires all the way to your selected RFID box mounting area. Leave some extra slack if possible. Also make sure you properly pair up and tape together your extension wires, making sure to mark the "special" pair. At this point you should go out to Radio Shack or any local electronics store and find a resistor of the same value you measured across that special pair.

You should now have all the necessary wiring coming right to the spot you're going to mount the relays and RFID box. Stay tuned for part two... I've gotta run to the store and do some chores :)
Amal ;)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gixxercan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 February 2010 at 2:25pm
Thanks so much for this write up!.. I'm excited to read part 2!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 February 2010 at 11:45pm
Hey there... ok so I lied/forgot a little ;) You need a DPDT switch, not a SPST switch, and you also need 3 automotive relays and one DPDT relay instead of 4 automotive relays. At first glance it looks like you could easily replace the DPDT relay with a SPST relay, however it really needs to be a DPDT relay so the RFID reader does not end up powering the automotive relays upon an authorized tag read. Below is a wiring diagram I whipped up that details how you should hook things up (PDF):



Ok, so the idea here is that the DPDT switch will push power to RFID reader as well as complete a "self powering relay" loop with the DPDT relay. Once a valid tag is passed over the reader antenna, a short pulse will power the DPDT relay coil, closing both sets of COM (common) to NO (normally open) contacts. Both COM pins are tied to the fused +12v coming from the battery. That means when the relay powers up and both contacts are made inside the relay, the relay will power itself through the DPDT switch, as well as power up the automotive relays. When the RFID reader stops sending power, the DPDT relay (and automotive relays) stay powered up because the relay's switched pins are now providing the power from connection to the fused +12v battery. The reason you run this connection through the DPDT switch is so you can flip the switch off to disconnect power from the whole setup, which will power off all the relays and the RFID reader.

Make sense?

So, once you have the above diagram all worked out, connect the key switch extension wires (with resistor if required) to the automotive relay switched terminals (87 & 30) and you should be set.


Edited by amal - 08 February 2010 at 11:47pm
Amal ;)

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gixxercan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gixxercan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2010 at 10:13am
So once I have that circuit worked out I connect my wires to those 3 relays correct? Now I only need 3 relays I'm gonna guess from the picture

Red-orange
orange/yellow- black and white
Grey to brown
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